The Rise of Regional Designers at Haute Couture Week

by Naomi ChaddertonJune 27, 2024June 27, 2024

From Zuhair Murad to Rami Al Ali, homegrown heroes have dominated when it comes to producing some of the most beautiful couture pieces, season after season…

With its spectacular settings and influential front row, the bi-annual Haute Couture Week in Paris has been a glittering showcase of high fashion ever since its inaugural event in 1973. And while the headlines have long been focused on the runways of age-old houses like Schiaparelli and Christian Dior, a sprinkling of modern Arab designers have made their way into the fold, the industry taking more and more notice with each passing year.

We’re all familiar with top designers like Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad from Lebanon, but in addition to these household names there’s a select handful of incredible talent hailing from the MENA region, captivating celebrities, royalty and socialites alike with their unique culturally-blended styles. Read more about the rise of regional designers at Haute Couture Week here.

Elie Saab

Perhaps one of the most well-known regional names on the haute couture circuit, Elie is the Middle East’s couture king. Loved by everyone from Rihanna, Blake Lively and Jennifer Lopez to Queen Rania of Jordan, Princess Madeleine of Sweden and Princess Beatrice, the Lebanese couturier started his label in Beirut in 1982 at just 18 years of age after a brief stint at design school in Paris. While he may not have had an easy start – the civil war that broke out in Lebanon in 1975 had seen his own family displaced – he insisted on opening his dressmaking studio in his native country.

Specialising in bridal couture originally, he soon expanded to offer haute couture, ready-to-wear and an accessory lines. In 2003 was invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris to be a member – and still remains one of the few officially ordained haute couture labels in the world.

He showed his first haute couture collection in Paris in July that same year, and the response from the press and retailers was instantly overwhelming. To this day Elie is known for sending out some of the most breathtakingly beautiful gowns, glittering parades of lace, crystal embroideries, gold-trimmed cutouts, organza petals and feathers rendered into 3D flower-shaped appliqués.

Zuhair Murad

Lebanese couturier Zuhair Murad was clear on his path since he was a young boy drawing sketches at the age of 10. Moving to Paris after high school to study fashion, he returned to his hometown of Beirut in 1997 to open his first atelier, his private client list growing at a rapid pace.

It was a short four years later the designer debuted his first couture collection during Haute Couture Week in Paris in 2001, with his signature style comprising the likes of lace, embroidery, sheer panels, print, cut-outs and strong silhouettes.

In 2007, Zuhair’s Maison de Couture opened in Paris, but it wasn’t until 2012 that he was elected as a guest member to the Haute Couture calendar by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture – the same year that the company was robust enough to warrant the commissioning of an 11-storey, custom-made headquarters in Beirut. Today he has showrooms and boutiques in cities from Paris and London to Shanghai and Baku – and, of course, Dubai.

Rami Al Ali

Syrian designer Rami Al Ali regularly unveils his high-end collection off-calendar during Haute Couture Week. His history dates back to 2001, the year he created Rami Al Ali Couture, having studied for an arts degree in Damascus followed by stints at some of the UAE’s most prestigious fashion houses.

Rami became the first Syrian to register for AltaRoma’s prestigious fashion event, making the Italian capital his base for the next few years until he managed to graduate to Europe’s capital of couture, Paris, making his debut in January 2012. Today he continues to be inspired by his Syrian roots, with lots of Arabesque and ornamental details that are both feminine and nostalgic, regularly catching the eye of the likes of regional royal fans and international celebrities.

Georges Hobeika

Georges Hobeika’s professional story began in Lebanon back in 1995 when, supported by his mother and some specialised tailors, he conceptualised and produced his first fashion show. Regional recognition quickly followed before the couturier took on worldwide status by presenting his collection in Paris in 2001. Since then, Maison Georges Hobeika has consistently showcased innovative collections at every Haute Couture Week.

The designer regularly pays tribute to the Arab world through his collections, and in 2023 he made history by becoming the first-ever fashion house to showcase a collection at Lebanon’s Temple of Baalbek, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. His Haute Couture S/S24 collection embraced the vibrant essence of the MENA region and was opened by Tunisian model Myriem Boukadida to the strains of Umm Kulthum.

Ashi Studio

Ashi Studio, established by Saudi Arabian designer Mohammed Ashi, made history in 2023 as the first label from the Arabian Gulf to be featured at Paris Haute Couture Week. Originally from Saudi Arabia, the creative had honed his skills at the prestigious École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne in Paris, which is renowned for producing some of the most talented designers in the fashion industry. Ashi Studio’s rise to prominence in the fashion world has been marked by a series of significant milestones, and early on it garnered the attention of high-profile celebrities and fashion icons like Beyoncé, Cardi B and Lady Gaga. It was Ashi’s couture week debut in July 2023, however, which not only cemented the brand’s exceptional craftsmanship, but also marked a significant moment for Middle Eastern representation in the global fashion industry.

Georges Chakra

Lebanese designer Georges Chakra debuted his first collection at Haute Couture Week in Autumn 2002, years before launching ready-to-wear line. Coming from humble beginnings, the designer, who moved back home to Beirut after studying in Canada, started his studio in his living room working on all aspects of the design process himself, from sketching to stitching his garments together.

His gowns have appeared in films like The Devil Wears Prada and are routinely worn on the red carpet by both regional and international stars (Harper’s Bazaar Arabia cover star Yousra is a fan).

Feminine yet dramatic, his pieces are known for highlighting the beauty of the female form while incorporating dazzling elements and details.

Tony Ward

Lebanese designer Tony Ward graduated from L’Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne and started his career working for Dior, Chloé, and Lanvin before founding his namesake label — or rather taking the family business, his father’s couture house, and bringing it to the world stage, transforming it into an international business.

After a decade of showing his collections in Rome, Tony presented his first collection at Haute Couture Week in 2014. Best known for taking inspiration from design, sculpture and architecture, his pieces have been worn by some of the biggest names in entertainment, including Selena Gomez, Sharon Stone and Mariah Carey