Ayesha Depala’s Journey Into Self Discovery Led To A Sustainable Brand With Good Vibes
Ayesha Depala shares the origin of 963, a more affordable and conscientious sub-brand of her eponymous couture line
Palpable, positive vibrations and a calming energy emanates from Ayesha Depala as we sit down at the designer’s atelier in Dubai’s D3 to discuss her most recent foray into fashion. Her tranquil manner reflects someone who has reached an enviably elevated level of inner peace, but as a veteran of homegrown fashion in the Middle East, and a creative who has dressed the likes of Kendall Jenner and Sonam Kapoor, she contrasts the zen by being simultaneously excited to embark on a new chapter; one that echoes her personal journey of enlightenment over the last few years.
Hailing from a textile family in India and growing up surrounded by clouds of delicate lace and block-print fabric, fashion was embedded in Ayesha’s DNA. A lack of simple, affordable pieces in her hometown of New Delhi spurred her to create her own outfits at a young age. Initial designs for her personal use then segued into a 20-year legacy reflected in her eponymous couture line. Retailing across Saks Fifth Avenue, Harvey Nichols, and her own flagship store ensured that fashion lovers in the UAE – including royalty, no less – were well-acquainted with her soft, romantic designs. And while some of these pieces were pure works of art, their wearability inevitably had some limitations, restricting how often they could be worn and by whom. With this in mind, as well as a personal healing journey rooted in essentialism, minimalism, and detachment, the 963 Ayesha Depala sub-brand was born.
Ayesha explains that the unique name of 963 “is an alchemical frequency helping us transmute negative emotions and experiences into positive ones.” Her vision is to create an ethical ready-to-wear label, while dovetailing with her couture sensibilities. “My couture footprint has been very important and was carried over into my ready-to-wear line,” she explains. Ayesha’s expertise in detailed construction, pattern-cutting, and attention to seams are more than evident in this new brand. Departing from her focus on outfits for special occasions, 963 is a celebration of women’s everyday lives. Mirroring the designer’s own spiritual journey, a more hippie insouciance, and a laid-back shift in style, the prêt-à-porter line embodies wellness and tranquillity. Forgoing the traditional format of fashion-week schedules, Ayesha replenishes the collection as she sees fit, with the current collection being the first of three planned for the year.
Ayesha’s emotional evolution has mirrored her trajectory as a designer. The juxtaposition of a lower price point – Dhs280 going up to Dhs1,200 – without compromising on quality came with its own challenges. “I inevitably think about expansion and how I can make something look or feel better. While this was very easy to manifest in a couture line because of the price points, it was a lot more complex to do with a ready-to-wear line, making it one of the fundamental challenges that I faced.”
As well as inclusivity, Ayesha is devoted to ensuring that 963 is ethical and sustainable. She has gone to great lengths to source materials which give back to the community without compromising on quality. The 100 per cent vegan brand uses fabrics sourced from certified organic suppliers in India, where the production process uses the likes of rose petals, aloe vera and eucalyptus. Silks are of the Ahimsa variety, which is produced without harming or killing the silkworms. Garment labels are made of seed paper and fabrics are air-dried to reduce the carbon footprint.
The retailing model of 963 represents another shift from the couture brand. Brick-and-mortar stores have given way to in-house e-commerce – a first for Ayesha – and physical displays now appear in international wellness and meditation spaces such as House of Wellness and Nilaya House in Dubai.
Photography by Aasiya Jagadeesh
From Harpers Bazaar Arabia July-August 2021 Issue