The Interview: Erdem Moralioglu On Fashion, Florals And His Fabulous New Collection For The Outnet
Renowned for his innate ability to fuse traditional detailing with an astute modern twist, the London-based designer has grown his impossibly chic brand, Erdem, to dizzy heights with one particular inspiration perpetually as the starting point for his collections – women
There are two types of creative; those that lap up the limelight and those who prefer to shine in the background, dedicating their time to perfecting their craft. Erdem Moralioglu unapologetically falls into the latter category, and although he may not be as recognised in person as his counterparts, the same cannot be said about his award-winning designs that have garnered the attention of a high-profile clientele including the Duchess of Cambridge and Michelle Obama.
Born and raised in Montreal, the London-based fashion designer launched his eponymous label, Erdem in 2005 – shortly after graduating from Britain’s prestigious Royal College of Art. Characterised by experimental textiles, poetic floral prints and a charming mid-century sensibility, there is no denying that Erdem is a storyteller at heart. His collections are created around a narrative that celebrates the feminine form and this whimsical aesthetic runs through the seams of his latest project – an exclusive capsule collection for The Outnet.
As the house of Erdem prepares to celebrate its 15th anniversary, Bazaar’s Nina Catt caught up with the man behind the brand for a sneak peek into his magnificent mind…
Please tell us how you started out on the path to a career in fashion?
“I always wanted to go to the Royal College of Art in London. I was obsessed with David Hockney and Ossie Clark, so I just applied to the Royal College where I ended up getting my M.A. During that time I also interned at Vivienne Westwood. I then started my own business right after graduation which was quite a risk, but 15 years later, one I am very happy I took.”
You’ve celebrated numerous successes over the past 15 years, what has been your biggest career highlight to date?
“Thank you! It’s hard to pick just one, but something that was very special was being included in the Met exhibition last year. It was an amazing experience to go to the Met Ball and to see two of my pieces in the exhibition. It was very surreal.”
Who is the Erdem woman?
“The more I do my job, the more I realise that she is so many different types of woman. I think what my customers have in common is an innate sense of style and an appreciation for clothes that have a human hand.”
Reese dress, Dhs1,375, Erdem at The Outnet
How has social media impacted your brand and the way consumers shop?
“Social media has certainly changed the way we discover new labels and trends. It also allows consumers to engage more with a brand. For me personally, social media provides such an amazing platform to share my story directly with my customer. It’s amazing to essentially invite 700,000 people to watch my show and come backstage with us.”
Floral prints run throughout your collections. Can you tell us why you cherish florals so dearly?
“I’ve always been fascinated by the language of the feminine. Flowers are an extension of this language; beautiful, feminine and complex.”
Tell us about the inspiration behind your exclusive capsule collection for The Outnet?
“We have been working with The Outnet for many years and I have been wanting to do something special with them. We have consciously been looking to find ways to revisit and reuse archive fabrics that have remained from previous seasons to avoid waste, and this seemed like such a great way to recycle. I have loved having the opportunity to take something that already exists and create something original and timeless. We wanted to create pieces that celebrate nature and have a sense of ease to them. The collection is a celebration of my past but is also something new.”
Indra dress, Dhs3,210, Erdem at The Outnet
How many pieces have you created for the collection?
“There are 25 styles which include a wide variety of dresses as well as tops, skirts and a signature pair of trousers.”
Tell us about the design elements?
“I focused on silhouettes from the past and experimented with fabrics they were never made in. I wanted to create an entire wardrobe, so the collection really covers different needs from eveningwear to day dresses, to separates and pyjama trousers.”
What is your favourite piece?
“I love the blue Nena paisley vine print. It’s based on an 18th-century wallpaper that we redeveloped. The blue is so striking.”
Nena dress, Dhs2,625, Erdem at The Outnet
Speaking of striking, what are your thoughts on fashion in the Middle East?
“I love it! In fact, one of the last places I visited before the COVID-19 lockdown began was Dubai. I was so struck by how vibrant the fashion was. We hosted two events and all of the guests really embraced dressing up. It was wonderful.”
What is your vision for the future of Erdem?
“That’s actually a really interesting question as I’m thinking about it a lot at the moment. In February I will be celebrating my 15-year anniversary and there are still new things I want to try developing, as well as building my retail business further internationally. I feel very privileged to be where I am, especially this year.”
With all that 2020 has bestowed upon us, what is your motto?
“Keep calm and carry on!”
Ha! We couldn’t agree more. Finally, when can we get our hands on your collection for The Outnet?
“It will launch on October 7.”
The man himself, Erdem Moralioglu
Photography by Tom Mannion
Visit TheOutnet.com