What Are Polki Jewellery And Kundan Jewellery? A Closer Look At Traditional South-Asian Designs

An emblem of opulence and artistry dating back hundreds of years, we look into the ancient technique of cutting diamonds

In the realm of artisanal heritage, few traditions possess the timeless allure and cultural significance of Polki jewellery. 

A symbol of heritage and craftsmanship dating back centuries in the Indian subcontinent, the traditional jewellery continues to captivate enthusiasts with its exquisite beauty and intricate technique behind it. Bazaar Arabia delves into the enchanting world of Polki diamonds, exploring its origins, defining characteristics, and enduring appeal. 

What is Polki jewellery?

Bazaar Arabia spoke to Sameer Lilani, a Dubai-based expert in the field working for over 23 years and is currently the Director for the Europe, the Middle East, and Africa (EMEA) division of Amrapali Jewels, who shared the intricacies that go behind making it.

“With the craft tracing its roots back to ancient India, polki diamonds are polished using very old techniques using a manual wheel and very fine diamond paste,” he said.

Preserving somewhat of their original rough appearance, these diamonds exhibit a surface with minimal facets, often cut to accentuate, and not hide, the stone’s inherent structure.

As a result, each diamond possesses a distinct and unparalleled character, rendering every piece unique. Originating in India long before the advent of Western cutting techniques, Polki diamonds represent one of the oldest forms of cut diamonds, steeped in rich heritage and tradition.

“The term Polki refers to the diamonds themselves, which are flat cuts. So rather than being full cuts and a full cut has like a round brilliant, a full cut has 56 or 57 facets on it,” Sameer says. “Then you have rose cuts, which are halfway between, and then you have Polki, which are the very flat cuts.”

Flat cut diamonds usually have under five facets and as the name suggests, they are not domed. Think of them as a “slice” of a gem, Sameer suggests. 

Generally, artisans put a silver foil backing, shaped like a dome underneath to provide reflection and more depth to the stone.

“This is the traditional Indian way of setting diamonds going back hundreds of years. And it’s a lot to do with the fact that in those days, they couldn’t cut diamonds, only diamonds could cut diamonds,” he said. 

Polki Versus Kundan: Are They The Same? 

The term Kundan, also heard often when speaking about South Asian jewellery, refers to the setting of the diamond stem, which uses 22 and 24-karat gold foil and a rubover setting style.

Rubover setting, also known as bezel setting, is the oldest way of fashioning jewellery with gemstones. This particular kind of setting style holds the stone with a projecting lip of the metal being used that overlaps the edges of the gem.

This is known as Kundan in India and it’s the traditional setting used for Polki diamonds but it can be used for other gemstones as well.

“Polki diamonds don’t have to be kundan set. Traditionally, they were, but now you don’t have to. You could use prongs, you could use different styles,” he said. 

Polki: What Sets These Pieces Apart?

One of the most noticeable characteristics of these diamonds is the organic look and charm they have. 

These also have a major advantage when it comes to how impressively big they look. 

“The advantage of this style of gems is it gives you a very big look without having too much weight of diamonds. It’s because they’re so thin. So you’re not paying for the weight below,” he said. 

While Polki sets are seen being worn across South Asia, especially during weddings, it’s at henna parties or mehndis that these types of pieces are most popular currently. 

Despite originating hundreds of years ago, the allure of Polki jewellery only seems to be growing as its charm not only lies in its exquisite craftsmanship but also its unique traditional artisanal quality. 

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