#ChicEats: Charlie’s, Brown’s, Mayfair
A British restaurant with European influenced dishes arrives to one of the chicest hotels in Mayfair, London, to delight the most fine palates
First things first – there are quite a few Brown’s not just in London, but in Mayfair too, so when you’re heading to Charlie’s, the new fine-dining restaurant at Brown’s Hotel, make sure you put the right destination in Google Maps so you don’t arrive half an hour late, flustered and wet from the rain like us.
Clear? Great.
Headed up by Chef Adam Byatt, famous among Brits for his Michelin-starred Trinity restaurant in South London, Charlie’s has taken the place of Beck at Brown’s, which was run by Heinz Beck for just over a year but closed this summer. And being housed in one of Rocco Forte’s best-known hotels, you already know at meal at Charlie’s is going to be something special.
Chef Adam Byatt
Photography by Charlie McKay
The set-up is what you would expect from a five-star dining establishment in the heart of Mayfair – lots of classic wood paneling, grand circular tables and a small yet chic bar where one can enjoy a martini or two before sitting down to eat. Botanically-themed wallpaper, which is a nod to author Rudyard Kipling who penned The Jungle Book at the hotel – adds a more playful vibe to the room, taking away some of the stuffiness that’s so often associated with grand dining rooms.
Photography by Charlie McKay
When we dined, clientele was mainly older businessmen and couples, alongside a few men in tuxedos, so while Charlie’s is a great choice for a fancy date or a celebration of a promotion, if you’re a group of girlfriends looking for a lively catch-up over a few bottles of vino, we’d recommend looking elsewhere.
As for the food, the menu is made up of classic British dishes with European influence divided into sharing plates, small plates and mains of fish, meat and vegetarian dishes. Our meal began with an amuse bouche of radishes dipped in a blob of smoked cod’s roe and a delicious bread basket, before our starters of late summer gazpacho and a terrine of chicken, ceps and duck liver arrived, both of which were a triumph and the latter with an ideal ratio of fat-to-flesh.
Gazpacho
Photography by Charlie McKay
When it came to mains, we opted for the wild sea bass with palourde clams, lemon, garlic and chilli and the rack of Cumbrian lamb which came served with courgetti and basil with celeriac and potato gratin. The seabass was flaky to perfection and complemented by an extremely rich, buttery sauce, while the lamb was what we would call classic British cooking at its best. Sides of creamy mashed potato and triple cooked chips were a delightful – if not unnecessary – addition.
Wild Sea Bass with Palourde Clams
Photography by Charlie McKay
With a little of room left for dessert, the salted caramel custard tart went down a treat, while the Gâteau Opéra came highly recommended.
While it might be on the pricey side, if you’re looking to impress in a swanky part of London, then look no further.
Gâteau Opéra
Photography by Charlie McKay
INFO: Charlie’s, Browns Hotel, Albemarle Street, London, W1S 4BP