Collection With A Conscious: The Subtle Yet Important Meaning Behind Giorgio Armani’s Autumn/Winter 2021-2022
The storied, beloved behemoth of a brand shows exactly how it’s remained at the crossroads of myth and legend all these years, while also raising awareness for important issues
Cool, sleek and arresting, Giorgio Armani once again proves his unmatched prowess on the catwalk. A quick glance at the lacquered stage for his Autumn/ Winter 2021-2022 womenswear show tells us both too much and yet not enough. There’s the ‘GA’ logo, intertwined and all-encompassing; at the centre, a glossy green gorilla, majestic and brooding in the middle of the room. The two objects are seemingly unrelated but, knowing Armani, there’s a reason for everything, from seam to silhouette. It’s the ah-ha moment encapsulated onstage and in the kind of style that has us returning time and again.
Named Nocturnal, the collection allows our eyes to adjust to winter hues of steel blue, teal, peeks of purple and lush, jet-black velvet. Models walk down the runway, some in male-female pairs, simultaneously allowing flecks of light to bounce off one another, designed to exhibit the day-night contrast of their ensembles.
Meticulous detailing sets Armani apart
The longer you stare at the abundance of looks, subtle details begin to surface. In some, beaded embellishments spring to life from the midnight black of luxurious silks, and in others, tapestry-like suits become animated with bubbled motifs. Signature velvet Armani bows punctuate the collection, along with bejewelled bags peeking through the abyss like stars, taking on a presence of their own. Spiralling ruffles make a not-so subtle appearance, at times grazing chins like Renaissance-esque ruffs or spilling from shoulders in a waterfall of chiffon.
In their dreamlike state, each look is both a masterpiece and wearable for everyday, a feat that seems to comes naturally to Armani. It’s no surprise that a year of lockdown has us gravitating towards casual comfort; a sartorial sentiment not lost on the designer. With relaxed waistlines and louche-cut harem pants, the silhouettes are forgiving – yet, importantly – chic.
3D floral embellishment meets sculptural design touches
Now back to the emerald gorilla onstage. A Christmas gift from his sister, Rosanna, the fierce statue affectionately named Uri serves as a symbol of the designer’s love for animals and passion for the environment. “I decided to put it at the centre of the scene because I think it is essential, now more than ever, to remind people how important it is to protect the natural world. My commitment on this front is great,” Mr Armani revealed of his dedication that saw the Armani Group donate funds to the WWF to aid in protecting wildlife last year. A collection with a conscience, this was a stunning display of multifaceted meaning.
From Harper’s Bazaar Arabia’s September 2021 issue