Staged at the brand’s Milan headquarters, Gucci’s spring/summer 2020 collection was a clinical affair. Just when you thought Alessandro Michele’s designs could get more eclectic, the creative director sends a legion of models down the, err, conveyor belt in a setting that looked like guests were somewhere between Terminal Three baggage claim and a hospital waiting room. Grave Encounters, but make it fashion.
And it wasn’t just the backdrop that made for an eerie yet glossy and futuristic spectacle, models, propelled forward by conveyor belts, glided through the room clad in neutral coloured utilitarian separates, which were designed to look like straitjackets.
“The group of first blank-style looks represents how through fashion, power is exercised over life to eliminate self-expression,” the brand explained in their show notes. “Straitjackets are the most extreme version of a uniform dictated by society and those who control it.”
Following the dystopic opening act, the remaining 89 looks harked back to the ugly-chic Gucci aesthetic we’ve all come to love. Think oversized sunglasses, dresses in clashing prints and fabrics, knit beanies and the brand’s famous horsebit and interlocking Gs, which adorned several pieces including on bags, belt fastenings and backpacks.
Gucci revealed earlier this month that it is going completely carbon neutral. 70 per cent of the catwalk set’s materials were recycled or reused, the lighting was LED and the show invitations were produced using sustainable Forest Stewardship Council FSC paper, according to Wallpaper.